YOUR EMAILS / OUR REPLY

STAINING     
   
TOOLS     
    
KEEPING THE CHARACTOR OF YOUR FLOORS

MDF
    
BELT OR DRUM SANDING MACHINE

A RE-VARNISH

PROBLEMS WITH BOARD SHRINKAGE

KEEPING THE CHARACTOR OF YOUR FLOORS

QUESTION
We have an old Victorian house with original floorboards. Having removed the fitted carpet from our first floor bedroom it's apparent that in the past, when the room has been decorated, the floor has been splattered with paint. The boards are ingrained with years of dirt and polish, which we quite like the look of. How do we retain this character but at the same time remove the paint stains? Is it going to be necessary to sand the boards back to the bare wood again, and re stain? With many thanks Caroline

ANSWER
Hi Caroline
It is possible to retain the character of your floor without sanding but it does involve some considerable effort. First hoover the floor. Next wash and scrub the floor with a stiff brush to clean off as much dirt as possible.
Use as little water as possible to avoid soaking the boards. Don't use any cleaning agents just clean warm water.
Whilst the boards are still damp try removing the paint by scraping with a sharp decorators scraper. (If you buy the floor sanding download, £5, from my site you'll see one in action). You'll find that much of the paint will pick off quite easily. Kitchen scouring pads, are also useful for removing paint. Watch out for splinters.
When you've got the floor clean allow to dry. Now you need to varnish.
For the first coat use polyurethane varnish, available most diy stores. Thin with white spirit as per instructions on the tin. This will give the floor a rich old looking colour and bring out the character.
When dry rub down lightly and apply 2 coats of Spectra or Mega varnish and you should end up with a rich floor full of character.
See website for Spectra and Mega varnishes. VARNISH LINK
Kind regards Peter

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for taking the time to reply and also for your advice. We will certainly follow your instructions and I will e-mail you when we have finished the floor and tell you how we got on and how it is looking! Caroline

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RE-VARNISH

QUESTION 20/11/07

Dear Peter, I have purchased and downloaded the sanding video which will help me greatly as the professional wooden flooring companies in the Midlands didn't strike me as that professional after my initial dealings with them so I'm going to take it upon myself to do the job!
I just wanted to ask if this also applies for re-varnishing worn varnished wood floors too which is what I am going to do? I'm guessing I wouldn't need to level as they should already be levelled or is it best not to assume? Also in the video you are instructed to sand down after the first coat. Then at end when it's listing all the tools the woman mentions the sander for sanding between coats, which sounds like it implies to sand after each coat rather than just the first. Could you please clarify this?
Many Thanks Stef

ANSWER
Hi Stef, To re-sand a floor I'd suggest you start with medium sheet and go along the boards. After a few boards you should have a idea as to how flat they are and whether they will need levelling. If a floor has been badly sanded and varnished then sometimes it's as quick to start again and level it as in the video, but start with the medium and then make a judgement. Its important to get rid of all traces of the old varnish otherwise it shows up as patches when you varnish the floor again.
You should just check how thick the boards are. If they are less than 10mm then think twice before sanding again.
Varnishing
Rub down after 1st coat and apply the 2nd. If the 3rd coat goes down within 2-4 hours of the 2nd, then no need to rubdown.The 2 coats will bond chemically.If there is along gap between coats, say overnight, then you must rub downto give a 'key' for the next coat.
Hope this makes sense and good luck with your floor.
Kind regards Peter

REPLY

Peter, Many many thanks for taking your time in replying, I beleive people like you are now in the minority.
Just one more thing (to paraphrase the great detective Lt Colombo), I may decide to stain the floor (because it is already stained), does the staining come before varnishing? I am very new to this so forgive me if the question appears a little simple. And if I do decide to stain I shall most likely take your advice and get in a professional (if I can find a good one in my area that is!) It's a shame you don't operate around these parts. Kind Regards Stefan

ANSWER
Hi Stefan, Stain is applied to the bare wood before varnishing. If you intend to stain then you should take extra care during the sanding and ensure the floor has been sanded to an overall smooth finish. Use a 100 grit as the last sand on the drum sander and 80 grit on the edger.
Stain is very un-forgiving and is absorbed more by rough areas (goes darker) than smooth. This is most evident where the edger has been used and can result in dark swirl marks left by a coarse disc on the edger. At the end of sanding make a close inspection of the floor looking for imperfections. This is your last chance to get it right as the stain will find them, but by then its too late and you will just have to live with it. Just one more thing. Good luck with your floor and let me know how it went. Kind regards Peter

REPLY
Hi Peter, Great advice, I will not hesitate to recommend you to anyone thinking of getting their floors done (in the London aread that a I have friends down there). Many Thanks and I will let you know how it goes and contact you with pictures. Stefan

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHICH SANDER. BELT OR DRUM?

QUESTION 21/11/07

ANSWER
Hi Yvonne,
A drum sander is fine for your needs. I'ts what I, and the vast majority of floor sanders use all the time. Belt sanders are lovely machines but they are used to sand a large area such as a sports hall floor where the finish is critical.
Having a mixture of boards should not affect the staining. The only time it can be a problem is when you have new boards, which are almost white, mixed in with old.
Hope this helps. Kind regards. Peter

==============================================================================================

MDF

QUESTION
Hi Peter,
Thanks for a great video on Floor sanding and Gapping, excellent confidence builder watching someone actually do it.
I have one question, I have been trying to find 2mm MDF but no luck, I tried Homebase but the lowest they go is 3mm, any pointers on where I could locate some, if I cant use that is there any other sheet material I could use?
Look forward to hearing from you.
Best regards
Jay Akhtar

ANSWER
Hi Jay, 2mm mdf, I am having the same problem. Since making the films Homebase no longer stock it. Some timber yards will order it for you but I don't know of any that stock it. I shave down a 3mm strip and use that or Lecol filler for the thin gaps.
Reply 24/8/2004
Hi Peter,
Just like to say thank you for taking the time out to contact me this afternoon, gave me a great deal of confidence in the task at hand which so far is going great, the gapped floor is coming along really nice, hopefully should start the sanding on Wednesday.
Thanks again.
Best regards Jay

Domnic has kindly emailed to let us know where you can now buy 2mm MDF.
Hi Peter, 2mm & 3mm MDF available in stock at:
Moss & Co, Dimes Place, 104 King Street, LONDON W6 0QW
020-87488251 Fax 020-87412470
Thanks Domnic.
===============================================================

QUESTIONS ABOUT STAINING

Dear Mr Weller
Firstly I would like to congratulate you on having the best floor sanding advice I have found anywhere on the internet. I will shortly be downloading the videos to help guide me through the process. I wish to stain my floor. The boards date back to the 1930's and have a good colour but I would like to darken them down a little. I found a picture on your site of the ideal finish and have pasted it below

I hear what you say about this being a job for the professionals but would still prefer to tackle this staining myself. My questions are as follows.
(1) It seems that you have used a walnut/oak stain on this floor. Can you tell me the name of the stain you have used and can you supply it to me?
(2) Can you give me any tips or advice to aid me in this process.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Kind regards David Innes

REPLY
Hi David,
The colour of the floor you mention (above) was achieved by using 2 stains mixed together, Walnut and Dark Oak. I did this because I find that the colour of stains if used straight from the tin can be too bright. I wanted to use Walnut to give some 'warmth' to the floor but the colour was too red. By adding Dark Oak it reduced the redness but kept the warmth. The mix was approx 3 parts walnut, 1 part oak. The final colour was then diluted by about 50% because it was too dark. I used a spirit stain, dilutes with white spirit, and I think it was made by Rustins.
Staining.
You will need:
plenty of rags or j-cloths.
Rubber gloves
A 1" brush
Roller tray
Black bags

The floor should be stained in one continuous process without a break. The work is best done by 2 people. Plan where you are going to start and how to work your way out of the room. Spread out a black bin bag and put the tray on it and pour in the stain.
The stain is applied with a rag working along 2-3 boards. Apply quite liberally and work at a brisk pace. 1 person applying, the other coming along behind a minute later wiping off the excess. Use the brush along skirting's and around pipes etc. You may want to mask skirting boards with broad masking tape, they're easily marked. Allow at least 6 hours to dry before varnishing, better overnight if possible.
Regards Peter
REPLY:
Thanks so much Peter I have been experimenting with a few colours and really understand what you mean by too bright. Your reply is excellent and will be of much assistance.
Kind regards David

==============================================================================================

QUESTION
Hello peter, I need a bit of advise. We have approx 70 metres of new pine floor boards we want to varnish with the Bonakemi product but we want to stain it first. Any recommendations on the type of stain to use? Thanks. Helene

ANSWER

Hi Helene,
There are basically 2 types of stain, water based and spirit based, can be thinned with white spirit, both can be used with Bonakemi products.
In the case of spirit based it is important that it has completely dried before varnishing, overnight if possible or a min of 6 hours.
The spirit stains are the ones I use and Coloron or Rustins are available in most diy stores.
Hope this helps. Regards Peter.

REPLY
Thank you very much Peter for your very useful advise. After extensive color testing, I have chosen the Liberon walnut spirit wood dye which I will follow up with 2 coates of the Mega Bonekemi varnish. Speaking with you on the phone really put my mind at ease that I was doing the right thing.

Thanks again. Helene

===============================================================

 TOOLS

QUESTION
Hi Lynne I received your DVD yesterday and watched it time and again all morning, It's exactly what I needed, before starting. thank you both very much. I intend to fit a new Marbau floor and sand an old hardwood floor. and so, I try to buy all the tools you recommended, via Internet, now. I want  your varnishes and roller and tray and perhaps all these hand tools ... is it the best water borne varnish for a new Marbau floor? (very hard and oily, so I read)
Please tell the make and power of the palm sander used by peter? there are so many around and I can't tell if they are powerful enough, so I will buy accordingly.
I am new but I want to DIY as much as I can........
Thanks for you kindness
Varda
REPLY
Hi Varda, Glad the DVD got to you in time and Lynne tells me that your cheque has arrived too, thanks. Firstly, the sanding techniques on the dvd are for sanding old pine floor boards, by far the most common floors in the uk. When sanding a hardwood floor do not start with the coarse sanding sheet and sand at an angle, as on the dvd, as you are likely to make deep scratches in the wood that will be hard to remove later. Start with a medium grade sheet and sand up and down along the boards. Do not use coarse  disc on edging sander for same reason.
Hand tools. All the tools you will need are available from diy stores, tools shops etc.
Roller and tray. Use a medium pile roller on a long handle. Roller and tray available in diy stores.
Palm sander. Any make is ok. The one I use is Dewalt.
Varnish. Bonakemi varnishes are widely used by floor sanders. Their Spectra or Mega varnishes should be fine for your floors. See their website for details on these products.  www.bona.com
Regards Peter

===============================================================

PROBLEMS WITH BOARD SHRINKAGE.

QUESTION

Dear Lynne,
As you may recall Peter sanded our floors in the living room and bathroom, I think, in July last year. I have been meaning to write for a number of months however have only just found your email. Shortly before Christmas nearly every floorboard started to crack and now in both rooms the infilling has completely cracked and separated. As you will appreciate, this is not particularly sightly and not what i would have expected to happen so shortly after the completed work. Could I ask if Peter can arrange to come and look over and see what the problem is with a view to this being rectified.
Kind regards, Simon.

REPLY

Dear Simon,
Your floor boards are affected by the moisture content in the air, causing them to expand and contract as climatic conditions change. If the gaps were filled during damp or humid conditions the boards will have swollen slightly. In the winter when the central heating is turned on, heating pipes running under the floor gradually dry the boards out, causing them to shrink, cracks can appear as you describe.
This is a rare problem and has only ever affected a few of the many floors Peter has worked on, in the last 15 years, in those cases only the boards directly above heating pipes showed signs of cracking.
You will probably find that your boards will swell again in damp summer months, thus closing the cracks again.
Your gaps have been filled with MDF strips which is the most professional solution for the unfortunate climatic conditions that you describe. Had filler been used under those conditions it would have fallen through.
The problem is caused by natural conditions beyond anyones control and regrettably Peter has no solution that will rectify it for you.
Kind regards Lynne.