NOTE Flat owners should check their leases before committing themselves to sanded floors.
12. Q A member of my family has asthma, will it be better to have hard floors.
A. Yes, dust mites are responsible for many allergies and need carpets and soft furnishings to live in. Floor boards are ideal for asthma sufferers because they can be easily cleaned and rugs can be washed and hung out to dry in the sun which kills dust mites. Dust mites are invisible to the naked eye, but just in case you would like to see what one looks like under a microscope...............................
For more information on this issue go to the healthy flooring network
www.healthyflooring.org

13. Q. How long will my new floor last?
A. The factors that govern the life of the floor are down to the amount of traffic it's subjected to and how well it's maintained. As an example, a seldom cleaned kitchen floor, in a large household with perhaps a couple of dogs, may last only 2-3 years. The same floor, properly maintained in a household of 1-2 people, may last up to 10 years or even more.
Cleaning & Maintenance: Vacuum or sweep regularly as dust and dirt act as an abrasive. Clean your sanded floor with a dampened mop or cloth using clean water only. For stubborn marks use a little washing-up liquid or specialised wooden floor cleaner. Avoid using household cleaning products as some contain abrasives or bleach.
CUSTOMER EMAILS
Below are specific questions that you have emailed to us. We hope that many of you will find our reply of interest and useful.
QUESTION 21/11/07
Hello Peter
I have a couple of questions I need to ask as this is my first attempt at sanding as I cant afford to have it done professionally.
Firstly Ive read somewhere that the best sanders are belt sanders but having rung several hire places in my area (gloucester) from the yellow pages they all seem to have drum sanders .Why is this & will I get an inferior finish ?
Secondly I have had to replace some of the old pine floor boards with other older pine floor boards from a reclamation yard.As.I dont particularly like the orangey pine look I intend to stain the floor but is this going to be tricky with different boards?
By the way your information that Ive down loaded from your site will be very helpful, its great to find such good professional help on the internet Thanking you
ANSWER
Hi Yvonne,
A drum sander is fine for your needs. I'ts what I, and the vast majority of floor sanders use all the time. Belt sanders are lovely machines but they are used to sand a large area such as a sports hall floor where the finish is critical.
Having a mixture of boards should not affect the staining. The only time it can be a problem is when you have new boards, which are almost white, mixed in with old.
Hope this helps. Kind regards. Peter
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QUESTION 20/11/07
Dear Peter, I have purchased and downloaded the sanding video which will help me greatly as the professional wooden flooring companies in the Midlands didn't strike me as that professional after my initial dealings with them so I'm going to take it upon myself to do the job!
I just wanted to ask if this also applies for re-varnishing worn varnished wood floors too which is what I am going to do? I'm guessing I wouldn't need to level as they should already be levelled or is it best not to assume? Also in the video you are instructed to sand down after the first coat. Then at end when it's listing all the tools the woman mentions the sander for sanding between coats, which sounds like it implies to sand after each coat rather than just the first. Could you please clarify this?
Many Thanks Stef
ANSWER
Hi Stef, To re-sand a floor I'd suggest you start with medium sheet and go along the boards. After a few boards you should have a idea as to how flat they are and whether they will need levelling. If a floor has been badly sanded and varnished then sometimes it's as quick to start again and level it as in the video, but start with the medium and then make a judgement. Its important to get rid of all traces of the old varnish otherwise it shows up as patches when you varnish the floor again.
You should just check how thick the boards are. If they are less than 10mm then think twice before sanding again.
Varnishing
Rub down after 1st coat and apply the 2nd. If the 3rd coat goes down within 2-4 hours of the 2nd, then no need to rubdown.The 2 coats will bond chemically.If there is along gap between coats, say overnight, then you must rub downto give a 'key' for the next coat.
Hope this makes sense and good luck with your floor.
Kind regards Peter
REPLY
Peter, Many many thanks for taking your time in replying, I beleive people like you are now in the minority.
Just one more thing (to paraphrase the great detective Lt Colombo), I may decide to stain the floor (because it is already stained), does the staining come before varnishing? I am very new to this so forgive me if the question appears a little simple. And if I do decide to stain I shall most likely take your advice and get in a professional (if I can find a good one in my area that is!) It's a shame you don't operate around these parts. Kind Regards Stefan
ANSWER
Hi Stefan, Stain is applied to the bare wood before varnishing. If you intend to stain then you should take extra care during the sanding and ensure the floor has been sanded to an overall smooth finish. Use a 100 grit as the last sand on the drum sander and 80 grit on the edger.
Stain is very un-forgiving and is absorbed more by rough areas (goes darker) than smooth. This is most evident where the edger has been used and can result in dark swirl marks left by a coarse disc on the edger. At the end of sanding make a close inspection of the floor looking for imperfections. This is your last chance to get it right as the stain will find them, but by then its too late and you will just have to live with it. Just one more thing. Good luck with your floor and let me know how it went. Kind regards Peter
REPLY
Hi Peter, Great advice, I will not hesitate to recommend you to anyone thinking of getting their floors done (in the London aread that a I have friends down there). Many Thanks and I will let you know how it goes and contact you with pictures. Stefan
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Question 18/11/07
HI Peter, Please could you advise on the removal of old wood filler between floor boards, as this has cracked and fallen out in many place's and has become very drafty, I have try various methods of removal ie chisels and sand paper but this seem's tobe very time consuming with very little result's. I understand boat builder's use a tool when laying new decking to obtain an even gap between each board is this an option ? I would appreciate your thoughts and advice. Many thanks Steve smith.
ANSWER
Hi steve,The tool I find most effective is this hand saw, a Stanley FatMax jab saw or similar. Click on the link below to see a picture of it.
The one in the picture I can get from my local Homebase. Please note, there is a very real danger of damaging a pipe or cable under the floor when using this tool.
Hope this helps
Peter
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Dear Lynne/Peter, I hope you don't mind this email, but we really need some advice. We have 2 issues that we need clarity on that weren't provided on your excellent sanding dvd!
1. Sanding a narrow hall: Levelling the boards using the right angled approach you demonstrated worked really well for the living room, but hasn't worked in the hall because it's narrow to use the drum sander in this way. We've tried various variations with no real joy, and so started to use the edge sander with mixed results (not very good). How do you normally sand narrow halls?
2. Staining a floor: We are looking for an antique pine stain as the floor is made up of 1970's pine boards with some new pine boards, that we had to lay to replace the original teak woodworm ruined boards, that we found under the black tar edging (another story there.). Can you recommend a decent stain that would work well with the Bonakemi l varnish? Any help gratefully received. Best wishes Pau.
ANSWER
Hi Paul,
Sanding a narrow hallway is a problem as you've discovered especially if the boards run across the hall. Sanding with the edger is usually the only solution. The
results are unlikely to be as good as when sanding a room but that's the only option.
Stain
All stains will work ok with the varnish as long as they are fully dry, preferably overnight. Regards Peter
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QUESTION
We have an old Victorian house with original floorboards. Having removed the fitted carpet from our first floor bedroom it's apparent that in the past, when the room has been decorated, the floor has been splattered with paint. The boards are ingrained with years of dirt and polish, which we quite like the look of. How do we retain this character but at the same time remove the paint stains? Is it going to be necessary to sand the boards back to the bare wood again, and re stain? With many thanks Caroline
ANSWER
Hi Caroline
It is possible to retain the character of your floor without sanding but it does involve some considerable effort. First hoover the floor. Next wash and scrub the floor with a stiff brush to clean off as much dirt as possible.
Use as little water as possible to avoid soaking the boards. Don't use any cleaning agents just clean warm water.
Whilst the boards are still damp try removing the paint by scraping with a sharp decorators scraper. (If you buy the floor sanding download, £5, from my site you'll see one in action). You'll find that much of the paint will pick off quite easily. Kitchen scouring pads, are also useful for removing paint. Watch out for splinters. When you've got the floor clean allow to dry. Now you need to varnish.
For the first coat use polyurethane varnish, available most diy stores. Thin with white spirit as per instructions on the tin. This will give the floor a rich old looking colour and bring out the character.
When dry rub down lightly and apply 2 coats of Spectra or Mega varnish and you should end up with a rich floor full of character.
See website for Spectra and Mega varnishes. VARNISH LINK
Kind regards Peter
Hi Peter,
Many thanks for taking the time to reply and also for your advice. We will certainly follow your instructions and I will e-mail you when we have finished the floor and tell you how we got on and how it is looking! Caroline
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QUESTION
Hi Peter,
Thanks for a great video on Floor sanding and Gapping, excellent confidence builder watching someone actually do it.
I have one question, I have been trying to find 2mm MDF but no luck, I tried Homebase but the lowest they go is 3mm, any pointers on where I could locate some, if I cant use that is there any other sheet material I could use?
Look forward to hearing from you.
Best regards
Jay Akhtar
ANSWER
Hi Jay, 2mm mdf, I am having the same problem. Since making the films Homebase no longer stock it. Some timber yards will order it for you but I don't know of any that stock it. I shave down a 3mm strip and use that or Lecol filler for the thin gaps.
Reply 24/8/2004
Hi Peter,
Just like to say thank you for taking the time out to contact me this afternoon, gave me a great deal of confidence in the task at hand which so far is going great, the gapped floor is coming along really nice, hopefully should start the sanding on Wednesday.
Thanks again.
Best regards Jay
Domnic has kindly emailed to let us know where you can now buy 2mm MDF.
Hi Peter, 2mm & 3mm MDF available in stock at:
Moss & Co, Dimes Place, 104 King Street, LONDON W6 0QW
020-87488251 Fax 020-87412470
Thanks Domnic.
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QUERIES AND ADVICE ON STAINING.
QUESTION
Dear Mr Weller
Firstly I would like to congratulate you on having the best floor sanding advice I have found anywhere on the internet. I will shortly be downloading the videos to help guide me through the process. I wish to stain my floor. The boards date back to the 1930's and have a good colour but I would like to darken them down a little. I found a picture on your site of the ideal finish and have pasted it below
.
I hear what you say about this being a job for the professionals but would still prefer to tackle this staining myself. My questions are as follows.
(1) It seems that you have used a walnut/oak stain on this floor. Can you tell me the name of the stain you have used and can you supply it to me?
(2) Can you give me any tips or advice to aid me in this process.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Kind regards David Innes
REPLY
Hi David,
The colour of the floor you mention (above) was achieved by using 2 stains mixed together, Walnut and Dark Oak. I did this because I find that the colour of stains if used straight from the tin can be too bright. I wanted to use Walnut to give some 'warmth' to the floor but the colour was too red. By adding Dark Oak it reduced the redness but kept the warmth. The mix was approx 3 parts walnut, 1 part oak. The final colour was then diluted by about 50% because it was too dark. I used a spirit stain, dilutes with white spirit, and I think it was made by Rustins.
Staining.
You will need:
plenty of rags or j-cloths.
Rubber gloves
A 1" brush
Roller tray
Black bags
The floor should be stained in one continuous process without a break. The work is best done by 2 people. Plan where you are going to start and how to work your way out of the room. Spread out a black bin bag and put the tray on it and pour in the stain.
The stain is applied with a rag working along 2-3 boards. Apply quite liberally and work at a brisk pace. 1 person applying, the other coming along behind a minute later wiping off the excess. Use the brush along skirting's and around pipes etc. You may want to mask skirting boards with broad masking tape, they're easily marked. Allow at least 6 hours to dry before varnishing, better overnight if possible.
Regards Peter
REPLY:
Thanks so much Peter I have been experimenting with a few colours and really understand what you mean by too bright. Your reply is excellent and will be of much assistance.
Kind regards David
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QUESTION
Hello peter, I need a bit of advise. We have approx 70 metres of new pine floor boards we want to varnish with the Bonakemi product but we want to stain it first. Any recommendations on the type of stain to use? Thanks. Helene
ANSWER
Hi Helene,
There are basically 2 types of stain, water based and spirit based, can be thinned with white spirit, both can be used with Bonakemi products.
In the case of spirit based it is important that it has completely dried before varnishing, overnight if possible or a min of 6 hours.
The spirit stains are the ones I use and Coloron or Rustins are available in most diy stores.
Hope this helps. Regards Peter.
REPLY
Thank you very much Peter for your very useful advise. After extensive color testing, I have chosen the Liberon walnut spirit wood dye which I will follow up with 2 coates of the Mega Bonekemi varnish. Speaking with you on the phone really put my mind at ease that I was doing the right thing. Thanks again. Helene
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QUESTION
Hi Lynne I received your DVD yesterday and watched it time and again all morning, It's exactly what I needed, before starting. thank you both very much. I intend to fit a new Marbau floor and sand an old hardwood floor. and so, I try to buy all the tools you recommended, via Internet, now. I want your varnishes and roller and trey and perhaps all these hand tools ... is it the best water borne varnish for a new Marbau floor? (very hard and oily, so I read)
Please tell the make and power of the palm sander used by peter? there are so many around and I can't tell if they are powerful enough, so I will buy accordingly. I am new but I want to DIY as much as I can........
Thanks for you kindness
Varda
REPLY
Hi Varda, Glad the DVD got to you in time and Lynne tells me that your cheque has arrived too, thanks. Firstly, the sanding techniques on the dvd are for sanding old pine floor boards, by far the most common floors in the uk. When sanding a hardwood floor do not start with the coarse sanding sheet and sand at an angle, as on the dvd, as you are likely to make deep scratches in the wood that will be hard to remove later. Start with a medium grade sheet and sand up and down along the boards. Do not use coarse disc on edging sander for same reason.
Hand tools. All the tools you will need are available from diy stores, tools shops etc.
Roller and tray. Use a medium pile roller on a long handle. Roller and tray available in diy stores.
Palm sander. Any make is ok. The one I use is Dewalt.
Varnish. Bonakemi varnishes are widely used by floor sanders. Their Spectra or Mega varnishes should be fine for your floors. See their website for details on these products. www.bona.com
Regards Peter
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DRAUGHTS
QUESTION
I think we're too far outside your area - we're in Guildford - but we were very impressed by your website and wondered whether you'd be interested in coming that bit further down the A3. If not, is there anybody you could recommend in the Guildford/Surrey area. Finally, could you suggest in a couple of words how we could insulate a wooden floor. The downstairs floors in our Victorian house are suspended over a void and I think, even if the gaps are filled, that it could be rather cold. Thanks Jane.
ANSWER
Dear Jane
I'm sorry we don't know of any floor sanders we could recommend for your area.
Regarding the draught under your boards, if the void under the boards is large enough for you to get underneath, you could fix sheets of polystyrene to the underneath of the floor boards, then fill the gaps with Peter's method using MDF. You can find out how to fill the gaps using this method by downloading the instruction film from the web site. The download costs £5. You can find the page by following this link: DOWNLOAD
P.S nothing to do with floor sanding can be explained in a couple of words. but hope this helps.
Kind regards Lynne.
REPLY
Thank you so much for getting back to me on this Lynne. The void under the floor boards is reasonably large so we'll certainly look into your suggestion and I'll make sure that any company we do use also uses a wood/mdf filling process.
Thanks again.
Kind regards
Jane
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